Onward: Chiang Rai

​There’s a fair amount of backtracking to do since I haven’t posted in several days. Returning from my weeklong retreat at Wat Pa Tam Wua, all centered and blissful, the harrowing and memorable yellow truck ride back to Pai. And discovering more of Pai, my tucked-away Airbnb there, the lovely hubbub of the Night Market teasing back my absence from the world into the richness and seduction of Thai street food, and cultural and colorful eye-candy. Everyplace I’ve been so far, I could have stayed longer. And yet it was time to move on, easy to let go, onwards towards the enticement of Chiang Rai.

Chiang Rai was a surprise in many ways. I had been told it was worth a day-trip to see the White Temple (above) which is truly a show-stopper, a recent creation by Thai architect/artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Truly captivating (alas very popular), but as I explored the city further I discovered so much more, and stayed for four days.

Chiang Rai is the gateway to the northern villages of six different hill tribes (Akha, Hmong, Karen, Lahu, Lisu, and Yao), each one unique in culture and costume, including the Long-Neck Karens of National Geographic fame. Sadly, I was told that tourism has engendered a human zoo mentality, and I declined the many offers to visit. Instead, by happen chance, I discovered the Hilltribe Museum, and spent several hours in a state of fascination.

I say happen chance because I was actually looking for lunch. Google has been quite useful for searching our vegetarian/vegan restaurants, and I was headed to one in an area of town I hadn’t yet explored, when I came across a restaurant named “Cabbages & Condoms.” Yes, I did a double take. Frankly, it didn’t so much appeal to me for lunch. My first thought was it was a misinterpretation, but it certainly piqued my interest. Turns out it was affiliated with the Hilltribe Museum, an NGO engaged in education, sustainable agriculture and yes, condoms for effective birth control in the tribal villages. In speaking with my sister-in-law who spent her career with Planned Parenthood, the “cabbages & condoms” initiative is well-known in family planning circles worldwide for their innovation and many successes.

As many of you know, I’m not so interested in museums as I am in street life, public art, and farmers and crafters markets. Chiang Rai bills itself as an arts & cultural mecca, not only indigenous but also modern “light” installations around town. 

The night market in Chiang Rai happens every night, but the weekly Saturday Night Market goes all-out and on and on for a 1/2 mile or so. It’s a full stop sensual experience, and not easy to describe its color and magnificence.

So much more. The Blue Temple, National Museum and botanical gardens, stories of elephants and opium, the list goes on. But the slow boat down the Mekong River has been whispering to me for many years. A grand finale with the spectacle of the clock tower in the center of town, and I knew it was time to heed the call. 














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